you mean timing belt? looking at 2.5 hours labor in the estimating guide.
Plus whatever the parts run.
double overhead cam motor in it. real simple design actually. Not alot involved in that job. Most shops will probally say 3 hours labor though. The belt (factory price) is $63.08. so probally 50 bucks at autostore.|||good luck finding the part or any part for a daewoo for that matter. most have to be shipped overseas since all the dealers closed up..
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Where can I get parts for my 1999 Daewoo Matiz?
I know Daewoo had shut down, but herd they still sale parts. In case something happens to the car I was wondering if anyone could tell me a good website where I could order spare parts from please?
Thanks|||Its actually Chevrolet that bought over Daewoo in the UK, so if you google search your local Chevy dealer they will still hold parts for your motor. The Chevy badged models are basically the same cars as the Matiz and Nubia|||Go to your local dealer, it's called Chevrolet.|||Daewoo are now Chevrolet. Their dealers will be able to supply parts. Alternatively try your local motor factor or a site like www.eurocarparts.com|||ebay|||You could probably use parts from a blender or can opener since it's a Daewoo. :)
Thanks|||Its actually Chevrolet that bought over Daewoo in the UK, so if you google search your local Chevy dealer they will still hold parts for your motor. The Chevy badged models are basically the same cars as the Matiz and Nubia|||Go to your local dealer, it's called Chevrolet.|||Daewoo are now Chevrolet. Their dealers will be able to supply parts. Alternatively try your local motor factor or a site like www.eurocarparts.com|||ebay|||You could probably use parts from a blender or can opener since it's a Daewoo. :)
What is specs for setting timing belt on a 1999 daewoo lanos?
When changing a timing belt, getting it EXACTLY RIGHT is CRITICAL.
If you are one tooth out on any of the important gears your engine will not run properly. If you are several teeth out you run the risk of bending the intake and exhaust valves rendering the engine useless.
I'm assuming you know where the timing belt is and how to get to it.
The timing belt runs around several gears these include gears on the crankshaft and on the camshaft. They are the critical ones. It will also run around several idler pulleys, a tensioner and possibly the water pump drive.
There are two types of timing belt alignment systems that I know of. One is where the timing gears and block/head have corresponding marks and the other is the timing gears have marks that line up with marks on the timing belt itself.
System one.
All of the critical gears will have a mark on them, such as an indented dot, raised dot or small arrow. These marks can sometimes be hard to find. Now each of those marks will have a corresponding mark on the block/head. You need to wind the engine over by hand until all these marks line up. Remembering that for every revolution of the crankshaft the camshaft will only do 1/2 a revolution.
Now release the spring loaded tensioner and remove the old belt. The cam shaft gear may move as you release tension as it is under load from the valve springs. You may want to make a wooden wedge to gently tap in between the gear and the head to stop it from moving prior to releasing tensioner..
When replacing the belt it is imperative that all of the marks still line up once the new belt is in place and under correct tension from the spring loaded tensioner. Don't forget to tighten up the tensioner locking bolt.
Now wind the engine over by hand several times and then check for alignment of the marks again remembering the 2 to 1 ratio of the crankshaft to the camshaft. If all marks still line up then you're right to start the engine. Once you're happy that the engine is running correctly replace the covers.
System two.
This system is virtually the same but the marks on the gears must align with the corresponding marks on the timing belt itself. The marks on the timing belt are white lines that run across the belt.
Having said all that I must say proceed at own risk. If you get it right you will save a few hundred dollars by doing it yourself. Get it wrong and you risk destroying your engine.
Good luck.|||hat spec are you looking for? go by the book and be done.|||they have been discontinued for years in usa
If you are one tooth out on any of the important gears your engine will not run properly. If you are several teeth out you run the risk of bending the intake and exhaust valves rendering the engine useless.
I'm assuming you know where the timing belt is and how to get to it.
The timing belt runs around several gears these include gears on the crankshaft and on the camshaft. They are the critical ones. It will also run around several idler pulleys, a tensioner and possibly the water pump drive.
There are two types of timing belt alignment systems that I know of. One is where the timing gears and block/head have corresponding marks and the other is the timing gears have marks that line up with marks on the timing belt itself.
System one.
All of the critical gears will have a mark on them, such as an indented dot, raised dot or small arrow. These marks can sometimes be hard to find. Now each of those marks will have a corresponding mark on the block/head. You need to wind the engine over by hand until all these marks line up. Remembering that for every revolution of the crankshaft the camshaft will only do 1/2 a revolution.
Now release the spring loaded tensioner and remove the old belt. The cam shaft gear may move as you release tension as it is under load from the valve springs. You may want to make a wooden wedge to gently tap in between the gear and the head to stop it from moving prior to releasing tensioner..
When replacing the belt it is imperative that all of the marks still line up once the new belt is in place and under correct tension from the spring loaded tensioner. Don't forget to tighten up the tensioner locking bolt.
Now wind the engine over by hand several times and then check for alignment of the marks again remembering the 2 to 1 ratio of the crankshaft to the camshaft. If all marks still line up then you're right to start the engine. Once you're happy that the engine is running correctly replace the covers.
System two.
This system is virtually the same but the marks on the gears must align with the corresponding marks on the timing belt itself. The marks on the timing belt are white lines that run across the belt.
Having said all that I must say proceed at own risk. If you get it right you will save a few hundred dollars by doing it yourself. Get it wrong and you risk destroying your engine.
Good luck.|||hat spec are you looking for? go by the book and be done.|||they have been discontinued for years in usa
Can a 2001 daewoo lanos engine be replaced by a 2000 daewoo lanos engine?
i have a 2001 daewoo lanos, with a blown engine. i found a 2000 daewoo that had some body damage but still a good engine. i want to replace it but im not sure if the engine will fit.|||Yes, it will fit.|||I'm sure it will.
I have bought a 1999 daewoo lanos that wont start. I bought the car knowing that there was a problem?
i knew there qwas a problem with starting the car, i was told it was the ignition. i had a guy to check it out, he has put new starter motor on, still no luck, the car will start on bump or jump and will run until turned of with the key. i was told i needed and imobiliser key, and then i was told you would not be able to drive it if this is so, im confussed could somebodyn help|||That is a coded key. If it does require that key, you have to find the dealer that sold the car originally. That would sound about right. The key cuts the battery power off from the car. These have been in cars since about 1988. Many high end cars had them, and now every car has them. It will run you about 100.00 dollars for the key
What is the proper torque procedure for the head bolts of a Daewoo lanos?
2000 Daewoo lanos 4cyl.|||HOLD IT!!!!!! THE OTHER GUYS ARE WRONG! The way you do it is-you start on the center bolts on the one closest to the exhaust manifold then the one in the middle on the intake side then the one on the exhaust side to your right of of the bolt in the middle then the one in that same position closest the intake manifold then you go to the one to your left of the center bolt and and do the same thing do them all(10) this way going from the center going out towards the ends, the one at the end on the timing belt side towards the intake should be the tenth one you tighten,The last one on the tranni side closest to the intake should be the 7th one you tighten hope you got that.Tighten18 lbs.first time around then 90 degrees then 90 degrees then another 90 degrees.Then you're done.make sure to replace the timing belt tension er with original (GM) e-mail if more help needed!Good Luck!|||mobilmen59 is RIGHT. You start in the middle and work to the ends.|||I don`t know the torque procedure for the head bolts on a daewoo I would spend a few dollars and buy a manual in the long run it will save you more money than the cost of the book|||The torque procedure is you start at one outer corner, and spin it on (not torqued yet). Then the opposite corner (in an X manner) and spin it on (again not torqued yet). Then back to the other side and do the same with the other, and then cross back over to the fourth corner. And from then on, you work your way to the middle doing the x manner. Then go back and torque them all down according to specs in the same order.|||I like to use the blue-tip torque wrench on Daewoo.
Just till it starts to smoke and bubble.
What difference does it make?
It'll never run right anyways.
For what it's worth listen to mobilmen
Those otherguys don't know wtf they are talking about.
But you can follow mobilmen's procedure for almost any engine with aluminum heads.
Just till it starts to smoke and bubble.
What difference does it make?
It'll never run right anyways.
For what it's worth listen to mobilmen
Those otherguys don't know wtf they are talking about.
But you can follow mobilmen's procedure for almost any engine with aluminum heads.
Can a Chevy Cabolt engine be swapped into a Daewoo Lanos engine bay?
That's Cobalt, and only if it's automatic, because they are the same transmission, where GM has owned Daewoo for sometime now. It would fit but would be allot of work, the whole wiring harness would have to be changed, and fuel system, motor mounts, custom hoses. But if you have lots of free time and money, Get-ER-Done.|||It might but you probably want to do more research|||why ?|||Daweoo is bankrupt and no longer selling parts, accesories, anything, wouldnt suggest it! Putting all that work into something you can never get anything for.|||um why would you want that?
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